Have you ever felt frustrated in the surf, questioning whether the problem was your paddle fitness, your level of commitment or the inconsistency of your local break?
This might surprise you but the real problem is a decision you never consciously made:
What kind of wave are you choosing?
This oversight has quietly held back your progress for years.
If you want more info on choosing the right surfboard for your level, check out our guide!
Let’s Start from the Top
Did you know that 90% of surfers follow the same path? They ditch the foamie, grab a generic hardtop and think, “great, now I’ll just keep going shorter.” But that’s actually one of the biggest mistakes you can make for your surf progression.
In reality, your surfing requires intention.
And that intention begins with wave size, not board size.
Unfortunately, social media has most surfers tunnel vision on surfboard types, chasing whatever trend is hot. There’s a constant debate between shortboarding and longboarding, never considering that that’s the wrong topic in the first place.
After years of getting surf coaching, observing lineups across continents, and navigating my own surf journey, I’ve seen this missed decision play out time and time again. Instead of starting with wave choice, most people drift from board to board, spot to spot, goal to goal, without anything to anchor them.
But today, I’ll be that anchor. For the first time, I’m sharing my surf progression formula that’s gotten me ahead of the curve, from foam board to noseriding in a year. And this formula is:
Wave Size → Board Choice → Your Style → Goals
1. Wave Size
Size Matters (Way More Than You Think)
The first thing you should ask yourself is, ‘Am I aiming to surf small, medium or large waves?’
Fun fact: bigger waves don’t make you a better surfer. A common misconception is that progressing in your surfing means chasing bigger and bigger waves, but that’s just not true.
In reality, choosing the right wave matters because, based on the size, surfing becomes a completely different sport. This change in mindset not only guides your surfboard choice but also where you should be surfing and how you should be surfing.
When you finally commit to the wave size that suits you, your surf journey starts to shift from accidental to intentional. And that’s when real progress begins.
Let’s define what each size looks like, and then look at their characteristics:
Wave Size Breakdown
| Wave Size | Depiction |
|---|---|
| Small | Ankle to Hip High |
| Medium | Hip to Head High |
| Large | Head High and Over |
Within each of these categories, there are mellow waves, punchy waves, barreling waves, etc. For the sake of simplicity, let’s keep them batched by wave size and list their overall characteristics:
| Wave Size | Characteristics |
| Small | Allows for early entry and slow pop-up, while relying on subtle and precise board control. Your goal becomes holding speed, linking turns, and staying light on your feet. This size isn’t about fear, it’s about finesse. |
| Medium | Introduces more speed which requires assertive movement and a focus on timing. You’ll need to paddle more, position smarter, and decide whether you’re surfing down the line or aiming for the lip. |
| Large | Demands decisiveness, advanced positioning and often the ability to handle challenging conditions. You’ll need to build your fitness, ocean knowledge, and tolerance for hold-downs. |
Here’s a simplification of where most surfers sit in terms of their wave size decision:
2. Board Choice
Shape Your Board Around Your Surf, Not Your Ego
Your next step is to ensure that you have the right equipment. One of my pet peeves is people thinking that longboarding is for beginners while shortboarding is for advanced surfers. That’s the wrong scale.
The right scale is ‘Board Control & Maneuverability’.
As a surfer, your goal should be to master control of your board. That is the ultimate sign of skill, knowledge and experience. If you can’t control your surfboard, no matter what size, you’re a beginner.
So, let’s look at the most common type of surfboards and when you should be riding them:
| Wave Size | Surfboard Choice | Who You Are |
|---|---|---|
| Small | Mid-Length, Longboard | You want a stress-free surfing experience, but you care about the details |
| Medium | Shortboard, Mid-Length, Longboard | You’re looking to work on your style and your turns, with some punch |
| Large | Shortboard, Mid-Length | You’re a serious adrenaline junkie, training toward competitive or high-performance goals |
Longboard: ~ 8’6” – 10’+
Can be a noseriding plank or a trimmed performance longboard.
Mid Length: ~ 6’8” – 8’4”
Usually a surfboard with more volume, something in between a shortboard and longboard.
Shortboard: ~ 5’6” – 6’6”
Light, small, designed for steep waves and the ability to duck dive.
(lengths will depend on your height, weight and skill level)
3. Your Surfing Style
You’re Already Creating a Style—Make It Intentional
Like it or not, your habits are solidifying your style. So let’s make it intentional.
The best way to find your style is to match it with your board choice. So, based on the decision you made above, let’s look at a few surf styles that could inspire you (with video examples):
| Surfboard | Wave Size | Style | Surfer Example |
|---|---|---|---|
| Longboard | Small–Medium | Noseriding | Steven Sawyer |
| Longboard | Medium | Performance | Natsumi Taoka |
| Mid-Length | Small–Medium | Flow & Cruise | Josie Prendergast |
| Mid-Length | Medium–Large | Expressive & Retro Inspired | Mikey February |
| Shortboard | Medium–Large | Radical Turns | Zoe McDougall |
| Shortboard | Large + | Barrels | Vahine Fierro |
Keep in mind that familiarity with one style often builds the confidence and curiosity to explore others. The most expressive surfers are those who, after establishing a strong foundation, begin to mix and match boards, styles, and conditions.
The possibilities are endless and this is just the starting point.
4. Goals
Surfing Without Goals Is Just Motion, Not Progression
The last step is to turn all your decisions into action. With your wave, board, and style selected, you can start building a progress plan and map out your goals.
Working backwards, start by listing the key elements that make up your wanted style. Then, you can sort them based on difficulty, and focus on the easiest one to master.
Here is an example of my surf goals:
| Wave Size → | Surfboard Choice → | Style |
| Medium | Longboard | Performance |
My Surf Equation: WAVE Size: Medium → Board: Longboard → Style: Performance
Use your preferred wave size, board, and style to map out your goals. Here’s how I’ve done it for myself:
| Foundational / Control | Flow / Maneuver |
| Consistently Angle into Waves No more straight drops Clean Pop-Up & Stance Adjustment Smooth, fast, centered Trimline Control Stay in the pocket, avoid out-running the wave Bottom Turn Basics Use rail to redirect, not just drop and go Kickouts & Finish Control End wave with intention | Confident Cross-Stepping Forward and Back On demand, not lucky Cutbacks with Flow Wrap it around and stay in trim Top Turns & Re-entries Controlled, with rail engagement Drop-Knee Cutback Style + power Backside Nose Riding & Turns Master lefts and rights |
Not sure what goals to set? Consider booking a surf coach to guide you based on your preferred wave size and board type and read this post on setting surfing goals.
Putting It Into Practice
Congratulations! You’re now ready to apply my progression formula for surfing:
Wave Size → Board Choice → Your Style → Goals
Once you’ve solidified your goals, it’s time to book your next surf trip while prioritising the right wave for you.
I’ve been living in Indonesia for over a year and here are my wave recommendations (a mix of personal experience and what I’ve heard) based on their size:
| Wave Size | Type | Indonesian Breaks |
|---|---|---|
| Small | Mellow | Batukaras (Java), Medewi (Bali) |
| Small | Punchy | Dreamland (Bali), Are Guling (Lombok) |
| Medium | Mellow | Ekas (Lombok), Playgrounds (Lembongan) |
| Medium | Punchy | Kerewei (Sumba), T-Land (Rote) |
| Large | Mellow | Nias (Sumatra), Yoyos (Sumbawa) |
| Large | Barreling | Banda Aceh, Lakey Peak (Sumbawa) |
Use the above as a rough guide, keeping in mind that waves change based on season.
For instance, the Mentawais are renowned for having powerful, steep waves. But, more and more people are visiting during the off-season with mid lengths and longboards, as the waves mellow out or get smaller.
Do your research before making any final decisions about where to head off to next.
Summary: Everything Gets Easier Once You Pick Your Wave
Everything Gets Easier Once You Pick Your Wave
In the end, there’s no right or wrong wave to chase. But failing to ask the question at all can lead to years of missed opportunities.
So before you worry about which board to ride or what technique to master, start with the most important question:
What kind of wave do you really want to surf?
Surfers often say they’re “searching for the perfect wave” but perhaps the real search is for the wave that’s perfect for you.
About the Author
Jazz is a Canadian surfer based in Indonesia, where she spent the past year studying waves, equipment fit, and the psychological process of surfing. She’s also the co-creator of Surf Tarot, an ocean-inspired tarot deck, and offers free monthly tarot readings on her Patreon for anyone curious about tarot.